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With Mark X Last Days of Tokugawa Shogunate + Driving Chasing Shadows of Ryoma in Yokohama & Yokosuka

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With Mark X Last Days of Tokugawa Shogunate + Driving Chasing Shadows of Ryoma in Yokohama & Yokosuka

Driving Record

Ryoma Sakamoto - one of the most prominent figures in modern Japanese history keeps engaging people's hearts and minds as a true hero after 150 years after the end of Edo Period. We explore the fascination of Ryoma through his association with other historical figures of the time.

In the peaceful world of Edo Period where the seclusion policy was kept more than 200 years since its initiation in early 1600s, there was no threat of invasion or the idea of invading other countries. However, a wave of advancement, invasion and colonization of African and Asian nations by Western world after the Age of Geographical Discovery came to Japan and in 1853, finally, U.S. fleet arrived to request Japan to open its door to the world. Edo bakufu (feudal government) ended only 9 years after the incident by returning the political power to the emperor as seclusion policy was its lifeline. Until then, political conflicts were between domains within Japan and thus the pressure from outside world put the nation into a total turmoil. In the midst of a chaotic period with a welter of controversy, there was a man who was spurting through the island advocating the New State Vision, which played a critical role in the Meiji Restoration.

Ryoma Sakamoto(1835 - 1867)

An able politician who influenced the Meiji Restoration and an excellent businessman who engaged in import of weapons - After escaping from Tosa Domain (Kochi prefecture today), Ryoma formed Kameyamashachu, the forerunner of Kaientai, which is known as a trading company as well as a political organization. He fixed up the alliance between Satsuma Domain (Kagoshima prefecture today) and Choshu Domain (Yamaguchi prefecture today), which was considered difficult at the time and dedicated a great effort for overthrow of Japan's Tokugawa shogunate and restoration of direct imperial rule. Ryoma thought that wealth and military strength were critical factors in order to transform Japan into a nation that matches other western countries. Despite his short life of 33 years, he spurted throughout the nation in the period of upheaval time and made a great contribution to Japan's transformation into a modern state.

This is an extract from a letter that he wrote to his sister about shameless and poor performance of the bakufu (feudal government), which was attacking Choshu Domain in collusion with foreign nations at the time. Pro or con- bakufu …Ryoma did not have such a narrow perspective. He saw Japan as a whole and his focus was rather on what was the best for his nation to survive considering the situation with outside world at the time. Later, he successfully completed the clean-up with alliance between Satsuma and Choshu Domain.

The most popular photo of Ryoma; He is putting his hand into his sleeve to hide the injury he received during the assassination attempt in Teradaya.

1 Ryoma's ambition opened the heavy door to the outside world Remains of Satsuma Domain's house & storage combined style residence / Remains of Satsuma Domain's upper residence 9 - 9:30am

Just as its new nickname, Samurai X, new Mark X offers both sporty and luxurious exterior and thrills you with its sophisticated atmosphere of interior and the powerful move with 2.5 litter engine, which enabled stable driving.
In the Shiba 5-chome intersection area near JR Tamachi station where a Tosa Domain's house and storage combined style residence used to be. There is a monument with an engraved statement marking a meeting place of Takamori Saigo and Kaishu Katsu where they discussed bloodless opening of Edo castle to protect millions of Edo people from a potential catastrophe a night before the attack in 1864.
Across the street from it, there is NEC head quarter and another stone monument indicating that Satsuma Domain's upper residence was there. Surrounded by tall office buildings, they are easily passed over unnoticed, however, those small monuments have so many historical episodes behind.

Saigo and Katsu had two times meetings; the first one was held in Satsuma domain homestead, and second one was in this Satsuma domain 'Kurayashiki (homestead-cum-storage)' and they formed the plan to implement the Fall of Edo here. The relief of Takamaori Saigo and Kaishu Katsu located with the monument to the meeting of Saigo and Katsu The monument of the remain of Satsuma Kurayashiki (homestead-cum-storage) next to NEC HQ building
Takamori Saigo

Takamori Saigo (1827 - 1877)

He was a member of Satsuma Clan (Kagoshima today) and one of the "Three great nobles" of the Meiji Restoration (Other two are Toshimichi Okubo and Takayoshi Kido). He was active in antiforeigner movement and formed an alliance between Satsuma Domain and Choshu Domain. Saigo went back to Satsuma after defeat on his "Debate to conquer Korea (Seikanron)", started the Satsuma Rebellion with ex-samurais against the Meiji government but lost after 9 years of battles and killed himself.

■Saigo's link with Ryoma■

It was August of 1864 when Ryoma was first introduced to Takamori Saigo by Kaishu Katsu. "hmmmm, it is hard to see through Saigo. When I give a small clap, I get a small response and when I give a big clap, I get a big response. If he is stupid, he must be stupid big time and if he is clever, then he must be clever big time." That was what Ryoma told Katsu. Katsu thought Ryoma had discerning eyes. On the other hand, Saigo described Ryoma as "I found a willing person (to lead this country to a better place) on earth. I spent lots of time with him, but I have never seen anyone who has such a grate capacity. His capacity is immeasurable." Ryoma and Saigo paid respect to each other and together they started building a foundation of the Meiji Restoration. Ryoma was 30, Siago was 38 and Katsu was 45 years old at that time.

Route Map & Agenda

2.Inspired by Ryoma, Yataro Iwasaki aspired for the world NYK Maritime Museum 10:20 - 11:20am

Mark X with NYK Maritime museum

By driving through Yokohama Yokosuka Road from Shuto Expressway, we headed towards Yokohama…the goal is NYK Maritime Museum. The museum provides an environment to discover Japan's maritime history. It gives a glance at Ryoma's visions for shipping and trading and further achievements of a shipping tycoon Yataro Iwasaki who took over the wishes of Ryoma and supported his Kaientai (trading company/political organization) activities and later established his own business, which is known as Mitsubishi today.

You can learn about Japan's maritime history with panels and video at NYK Maritime museum An exquisite reproduction of a sailboat You can rest while watching exhibitions at the cafe in the NYK Maritime museum There is also a library with variety of books about maritime trade, ships, sea, and so on in the museum (Only visitors of the museum can enter)
Yataro Iwasaki

Yataro Iwasaki (1834 - 1885)

He was born in a farming family in Tosa domain (Kochi prefecture). He found work as a clerk for the Tosa government and later he was promoted to the top position at the Tosa clan's trading office in Nagasaki. At the same time, he worked as an accountant for Kaientai. Later, he took over Tosa clan's business and founded a forerunner of Mitsubishi Zaibatsu (Conglomerates) hence came to be known as a "Shipping tycoon of the East".

■Iwasaki's business success through Ryoma's vision■

Ryoma and Iwasaki worked together to get through the difficult tasks of handling Irohamaru Wreck, the murder of British sailor and such. Iwasaki mentioned Ryoma's name frequently in his diary and we can see that he was drinking with Ryoma quite often. Iwasaki who was scrambling as an economic official and contrastingly Ryoma who was a free spirit, full of curiosity and had his sights on political reform…two were involved in totally different activities but had one thing in common - seeing world as a place where an immeasurable possibilities in their quest. Iwasaki absorbed Ryoma's ability to foresee the future and decisiveness as his fresh and blood. Later, his company Mitsubishi made a big leap to the world.

NYK Maritime Museum

address
3-9 Kaigandori, Naka-ku, Yokohama-shi
time
10am - 5pm
tel
045-211-1923
price
500 yen (adult)
300 yen (senior: 70 and older, junior high school student and high school student)
elementary school student and under free
holiday
Closed on Monday (if Monday falls into holiday, the museum is open and will be closed on the next business day)
Temporary Closing: December 29th, 2009 - January 3rd, 2010 and February 23rd - 26th, 2010
parking
Meter parking
Yokohama Kaiko (opening port) Memorial Museum, one of the national important cultural properties Yokohama Customs, Islamic building mixed with Romanesque After 10 minutes walk from NYK Maritime Museum, you will arrive at Minato Mirai! The view of illuminated Minato Mirai There are more to see in the area besides the Maritime building: Yokohama Port Opening Museum, Yokohama Custom, Kanagawa Prefectural Office, Kanagawa Prefecture Historical Museum etc.

Route Map & Agenda

3 A Japanese style restaurant associated with Ryoma's wife Oryo (established in 1863) Culinary Art Tanakaya 11:30am - 1pm

We decided to spoil ourselves and go to a Japanese style restaurant that is associated with Ryoma's wife Oryo. Kappo Tanakaya (Culinary Art Tanakaya) has a history of 146 years.
Oryo served at this restaurant for two years as a maid on referral from Takamori Saigo after the death of Ryoma. The parlor is preserved in its condition at the time of establishment and it will give you a deep feeling when you imagine Oryo actually was walking around serving her customers in this room.
There is a special set menu called Oryo Kaiseki and it has dishes with Oryo's favorite ingredients and vegetables from her hometown Kyoto. For example, today's special ingredients were awafu (dried bread-like pieces of wheat gluten) and Ebiimo (a kind of aroid) - ingredients that are very familiar in Kyoto.
Okami-san (manager) will start talking about Oryo and other historical episodes while showing old pictures and written materials by request. Fine dinning at this traditional restaurant with best food will put you on the ritz. Prior reservation required.

◆◆◆The most successful restaurant in Japan◆◆◆
Tanakaya is the first restaurant in Japan to cater to its foreign cliental with English menu

Tanakaya is found in Hiroshige's "53 Stations of the Tokaido" and that tells us how popular and well known the restaurant was in a post station of Kanagawa. It was appreciated as only one restaurant that gives its employees English and French lessons and provides a very descent service to foreign guests. Prominent people from political and business worlds as well as cultural figures came to use this restaurant frequently and it became the most successful restaurant at the time. There was a big ballroom, special rooms with the state of art facility for VIPs, a roman style bathroom with a huge bathtub made of tiles instead of a traditional wooden style one and beds instead of futons.
There were approximately 58 restaurants lined up in the area in the busiest time, however due to development of the area and the transit system, the number has decreased eventually and Tanakaya is the only one left today.

Oryo

Oryo (1841 - 1906)

Oryo was born as the eldest daughter of a doctor in Kyoto. She was adopted as a daughter of a historical boat-lodging called Teradaya (Fushimi-ward, Kyoto) and that is where she met Ryoma. Having Takamori Saigo as a matchmaker, she was married to Ryoma in 1866. It was about two years before Ryoma was assassinated at Ohmiya (Kawaramachi-dori, Kyoto).

■Stories associated with Oryo■

Oryo was fluent in English and French and good at playing moon guitar. She was self-assured and was not shy to communicate with foreigners (imagine how foreigners appeared to them after closing country for 200 plus years) hence, the restaurant found her very helpful. Sashimi (sliced raw fish) was served with its head and tail at the restaurant back then, but one time, knowing they freak out some foreign guests, Oryo requested chefs to serve it without head and tail helping foreign guests to regain their appetite by making fish look edible.

Kanagawa from the series of 53 Stations of Tokaido by Hiroshige: Kanagawa-juku was the third of the fifty-three stations of the Tokaido, after Shinagawa and Kawasaki

Tokaido Gojusantugi (53 stations of the Tokaido) by Hiroshige Ando

You will see Sakuraya, which is a forerunner of Tanakaya in one of the paintings “Kanagawa Dainokei”.

The front view of Kappo Tanakaya gives us an image of the past The parlor of Tanakaya, with original alcove posts made by cherry tree and hand-carved fanlights, remain today as they were in Edo Ms. Akemi Hiratsuka, okami (owner) of Tanakaya, sometimes welcomes guests by playing shamisen (a three-stringed musical instrument) Oryo Kaiseki - special course named after Oyo, with various Kyoto vegetables and her favorites. JPY 15,000 (excluding tax and service fee)

A group photo of Tanakaya's employees from Meiji era (Oryo is in center)

“We found Oryo-san in one of the old photos”

Kappo Tanakaya

address
11-1 Daimachi, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama-shi
time
11:30am - 2pm/5pm - 10pm
tel
045-311-2621
holiday
Irregular holiday schedule
parking
2 cars (there is a meter parking area near by)

Route Map & Agenda

4.Meet Ryoma and Oryo at Oryo's grave Shingyoji Temple 2:10 - 2:30pm

A mountain gate of Shingyoji Temple where Oryo's grave is

Shingyoji Temple

address
3-29-1 Otsucho, Yokosuka-shi
parking
2 cars
It seemed that many people visit Oryo-san. There were so many beautiful flowers at her grave.
Wooden figures of Ryoma and Oryo, carved by a renowned priest Oryo's grave is located on the hill in Shingyoji Temple

Oyo is buried at Shingyoji Temple, which is located in a quiet residential area of Yokosuka (approximately 1 hour driving from Yokohama). Shingyoji Temple is very well maintained and gives solemn impression to us. After death of her husband Ryoma, Oryo stayed with his family for a while but moved to Kyoto, Osaka and Tokyo not so long after she moved to Tosa. Eventually, she moved to Yokosuka and settled for the rest of her life.
Because she was a part of most popular hero Ryoma's life, many fans visit this temple and dedicated the couple's paintings and such to enshrine making the temple rather look like a museum.

■Ryoma and Oryo were linked by dedicated love■

At midnight of January 24, 1866, Ryoma was at a boat-lodging in Kyoto called Teradaya. Ryoma used the inn frequently and met Oryo who was an adopted daughter there. Some officers from the bakufu ambushed Ryoma and his fellows. Oryo was taking a bath at the time, but she sensed the attack quickly, and run up to the second floor half naked and saved their lives. Ryoma was injured at the incident and was under medical treatment for a while. It is said that Ryoma and Oryo were brought closer by the incident and Oryo's devoted care during the treatment. According to Ryoma's letter, Oryo is "a very different woman who cannot do any housework but plays moon guitar".

Route Map & Agenda

5 A place known for Kaishu Katsu, Ryoma's teacher's fasting training Kano Shrine 2:40-3:10pm

We took a road along the coast line of Uraga port to go to Kano Shrine where Kaishu Katsu went on fasting.
He cleansed himself at a well in the shrine before fasting, which was done at the mountain summit to pray for the safety of his voyage. When he departed to his journey, it is said that he told his wife that he was just going to Shinagawa (Tokyo) to see ships.
After walking through the premises of the shrine and go up the long stairs with approximately 200 steps, you will find a monument indicating that is the place where Katsu was praying. The summit offers a great view of Tokyo Bay.

Kaishu Katsu

Kaishu Katsu (1823-1899)

He was an officer of the bakufu. He studied at Nagasaki Naval Training Center and took his first voyage to the US in 1860 as a captain of Kanrinmaru. He had a talk with Takamori Saigo at the time of Boshin War and made a great effort for bloodless opening of Edo castle. He was a teacher of Ryoma.

■Eye opening experience■

In 1862, when Ryoma was 28, he escaped from Tosa Domain and visited Katsu at home with his fellow. At the beginning, Ryoma thought Katsu's theory is violent and dangerous, hence he was trying to kill Katsu. However, Katsu convinced Ryoma to consider arguing a point instead of killing him. Further, Katsu pointed out Japan on the globe for those two visitors and showed them how small Japan is and explained the meaninglessness of insisting on rejecting foreign countries without national power. Katsu also taught them Western culture based on his own experiences in the US. This visit opened Ryoma's eyes (as well as his fellow's) and totally changed his life ahead. Ryoma plead Katsu to be his master and this was the beginning of his terms with Katsu.

It is also popular among students who are taking entrance exams.

Lucky charms from Kano Shurine: from the top in a clockwise direction, charms for marriage tie (JPY 500 for each), lucky bell charms (JPY 500 for each), a lucky charm effigy to rid people of misfortune and disease (JPY 300)
This shrine is supposed to help people's wish come true

Kano Shrine was first established by having the Holy Spirit from the Iwashimizu Hachiman shrine in Kyoto wishing the reemergence of Minamoto clan.

Uraga castle used be here it was used as a naval base of the Hojo clanA well which Katsu used when he was on fasting trainingAfter 200 steps of Kano Shrine, you will see the monument of Kaishu Katsu's fasting trainingMark X in front of Kano Shrine, Uraga bay on the back

Kano Shrine

address
2-21-25 Higashi Uraga, Yokosuka-shi
tel
046-841-5300
parking
7 cars

Route Map & Agenda

6 Rapid time change after arrival of Commodore Perry Perry Park / Perry Museum 3:40 - 4:30pm

The monument of Perry's landing in the Perry Park.  Perry Museum on the right

Perry Museum

address
7-14 Kurihama, Yokosuka-shi
time
9am - 4:30pm
tel
046-834-7531
price
Free
holiday
Closed on Monday (if Monday falls on a holiday, Tuesday), the following day of holiday, year end (Dec. 29-Jan. 3)
parking
No parking
Mark X on the coast in Yokosuka mmm…Picture perfect!

In front of Kurihama beach where Matthew Perry first landed is now made into a beautiful park. You will see a big monument as well as Perry Memorial where great amount of information on Perry's arrival and four black ships from the US. A letter that he addressed to his daughter is also displayed and it could not help us wishing that his daughter received it.

Diorama of the first arrival of four black ships to Uraga bayYou can see a letter from Perry to his daughter, newspapers reporting the arrival of the black ships of Commodore Perry, etc, in this exhibit room.
Matthew Perry

Matthew Perry(1794 - 1858)

In 1853 Commodore Matthew Perry visited Japan with a squadron of four war vessels and presented the Shogun with a letter from U.S. President Millard Fillmore. In the following year the United States and Japan concluded a treaty of amity. (Source: Cultural and Historical Relations with Foreign Countries)

■Ryoma's excitement over gigantic war vessels■

After Perry's first visit, Japan started showing a drastic shift both politically and culturally. Coincidentally, Ryoma who never be a slave to convention moved to Edo (Tokyo) at the same time. He was hired as a temporal patroller of artillery in Shinagawa and that is how he saw the black vessels. It was Washington's Birthday and thus the black vessels were firing in total of 126 gun salutes. Imagine Ryoma's excitation. Although Ryoma was born in a fishing town on the Pacific Ocean and he had seen many ships growing up, the size of these war vessels were beyond his imagination.

Route Map & Agenda

7 A traditional Japanese inn loved by great figures (Hakone-Yumoto) Bansuirou Fukuzumi 7pm

Our trip ended in Hakone. We stayed at traditional hot spring inn Bansuirou Fukuzumi for a night. This prestigious inn is said to be one of the best in the HakonYumoto area and the building is designated as an important cultural property by Japanese government - the first hotel that received the title. Prominent historical figures such as Hirobumi Ito, Takayoshi Kido, Kaoru Inoue and such stayed at this inn and Inoue who was a foreign minister back then used this hotel for concluding a treaty with Germany. The oldest building was built in the beginning of the Meiji period and you can see the strong influence of Western-style architecture reflecting Japan's cultural awakening. Precious wood and combined with artisan skills throughout the building are well kept as it was first built and give us a flavor of Meiji Period.
The name "Bansuirou" was given by one of the first Prime Ministers Takayoshi Kido (Kogoro Katsura) from Choshu (Yamaguchi prefecture today) and the framed name board written by Kido is put on the lobby wall. The hotel also has one of two self-water jet type hot springs in the whole area.

This is the first Japanese inn which was designated as a nationally important cultural property in 2002 Natural hot spring directly comes from Hakone-Yumoto with the bath tub made by Sawara Cypress
Room #15 of Mansui-ro with 48 ceiling pictures painted by 24 artists including Keigetsu Matsubayashi. There are also calligraphic works by Yodo Yamauchi who was the last domain lord of Tosa Domain.
The oldest building is designated as the first important cultural property in the hotel industry.
Takayoshi Kido (Kogoro Katsura)

Takayoshi Kido (Kogoro Katsura) (1833-1877)

He was an officer in Choshu Domain and later became a successful politician. He studied at Shoukason-juku, one of the most distinguished intellectuals in the period founded by Shoin Yoshida. Together with Saigo and Okubo, Kido tided up Satsuma and Choshu to elevate the anti-bakufu movement. In the new government, he was appointed as a member of the house of Councilors and led Domains to return their land and people to the government as a part of abolition of clans and establishment of prefectures policy. He died from sickness during Satsuma Rebellion.

■Ryoma's admiration for Kogoro Katsura■

Despite the fact that many historical figures from Choshu tended to have extreme ideas and visions, Kogoro Katsura walked his own independent path as a moderate. He was viewing the situation in a calm manner and taking his actions carefully. In one of the letters Ryoma addressed to his family, he said "People said there was not a single great person from Choshu, but there actually is someone called Kogoro Katsura" praising Katsura's attitude of avoiding meaningless arguments and conflicts. Later, Ryoma brought Saigo and Katsura who changed his name to Kido together leading Satcho Alliance (Alliance between Satsuma Domain and Choshu Domain).

Bansuiro Fukuzumi

address
643 Yumoto, Hakonemachi, Ashigarashimo-gun
tel
0120-292301(toll free)
price
From 22,000 yen/night + tax
parking
15 cars

Route Map & Agenda

Mark X

Mark X with a beautiful sleek shape Sporty and elegant back style Very functional control panel

Mark X (Grade: 250G Relax Selection, Body Color: Ice titanium metallic)

  • Drive Train
    2WD
  • Seating Capacity
    5 people
  • Fuel Efficiency
    12.4 km/L (10.15 mode)
  • MSRP
    2.68M yen (tax incl.)
  • Handling Dealers
     tokyo toyotatokyo toyopet_ten.gif

**Prices are vehicle prices and do not include option prices.

Comments from Driver

You can tell this is a higher class model from just a glance of its dynamic body shape. I especially like the edging effect on its front face line. The drivers' seat fit my body perfectly and the interior was also high quality. The car gave me premium car impressions from every single corner. It was a 2.5 litter engine model, but the power was enough to blow my mind when I accelerated to pass a car in front of me on the highway.

Comments from passenger

I felt like I was in someone's living room or somewhere. I was totally relaxed. The car had a pair of speakers in the front instrument panel as a part of "Superior Sound Package" option and the quality sound enhanced our driving nicely. Together with amazing views and quality sound of nice music, the car made our driving a rich and therapeutic time. Because the whole car was designed in a very stylish tone, I thought I wanted to dress up when I go out in this car next time.

Luxury driving with quality sound system (dealer option)

Tweeter Speaker set (dealer option) will make your driving more luxury

Superior Sound Package (Tweeter speaker set)
Tweeter speakers installed upper side of instrument panel sends booming sound in all directions.

Dealership

Tokyo Toyopet Shibaura branch Sales staff from Tokyo Toyopet Shibaura branch

Tokyo Toyopet Shibaura branch

address
4-8-3 Shibaura, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Access
On the street parallel to Shin Shibaura unga (canal). Near the intersection at 4 Shibaura.
tel
03-3769-1231
Hours
10am - 6pm (closed on Tuesday)
Comments on Mark X from sales staff
By having Mark X's conventional engine in front and FR drive train for the back, it accomplished the most ideal weight balance and handling performance resulting to polish its driving performance. 2.5 litter engine was modified to regular gas specification for lower running cost. Furthermore, this Relax Selection is covered by tax break for eco-friendly cars. Shibaura branch as well as repair shop is open on the weekend. We offer inspections and estimates for repair etc. for free. Please feel free to visit our store.

* All information is as of December 2009.** Please note that the mileage is to give you an idea.

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